You all know I LURVE Kitschycoo’s Mini Penny Pinafore pattern, but you know what I love more?
I will add pockets to anything I sew for myself that doesn’t already have them. So, when I woke up at 3 AM this morning yelling to myself POUCH POCKET, I knew what was on the agenda for today.
The rest of this post is a barrage of photos I took while hacking this lovely pattern, so if you’re not interested, feel free to bow out now 🙂
I used the 4T size of the pattern, but the idea is the same for all sizes, even the adult size (and don’t think even for a second that you won’t see me wearing one of these bad boys a la pockets reeeeeeeeal soon).
1) Make a mark 1″ below the “match point” line on the center front, and another 5″ below that (feel free to change dimensions for personal preference)
2) Using the pattern piece and these points, draft a trapezoid shaped pocket piece. Mine ended up being 5″ X 7″ X 8.5″.
3) Cut out two pieces out of your pocket fabric and apply stay tape to the sides and one of the bottoms. We don’t want saggy pockets do we?
4) With right sides together sew the top and bottom of the pocket together.****
*****I serged mine together, so I needed to do the next step. If you are stitching with a regular machine, then stitch the top and bottom together inside the seam allowances ONLY (meaning, start 3/8″ from one end and stop 3/8″ from the other)
5) if you serged your pocket together, mark your 3/8″ seam allowance and grab your seam ripper and rip out those few lines of stitches.
6) Mark on the center piece of fabric where the top of the pocket should be, and then lay pocket on the piece with the “right” side facing up.
Make sure your pocket is straight.
7) Fold back one corner of the pocket and then tuck under the bottom layer of the pocket’s seam allowance. Then pin the top layer of the pocket to the center front panel, making sure that you don’t pin the bottom layer of the pocket as well. Confusing? I know, look at the pics instead.
8) Pin the other side and stitch the pocket to the center panel.
9) Clip the seam allowances at the corners of the pockets and then finish the seams of ONLY where the pocket + center panel overlap. The red arrows show where I clipped the seam allowances. Be careful and do not clip past the seam allowance.
10) Flip the pocket to the “wrong” side of the center panel. You will be able to see the seam allowance of the other pocket layer.
Give the pocket a good press so it lays nice and flat.Now the pocket is attached to the center front, but we still need to attach it to the side panels.
11) Lay one side panel piece over the center panel, matching up the raw edges and the match point for the princess seam. Make sure when you pin the layers together you do not pin the pocket into the seam. I like to pin the pocket a little out of the way to be safe.
There will be a little space where you clipped the seam allowance, so overlap this area when you pin. Pin both side panels.
12) Stitch the side panels to center panel, making sure not to catch the pocket in the seam allowance. There will be a little spot where you overlapped while pinning that you will need to stitch a little further in than the seam allowance so you don’t end up with a tiny gap in you seam where you clipped. You will want to angle in while stitching just enough to stitch inside the gap (see arrow) and then straighten back out.
The final stitch line will look something like this
Don’t worry, it won’t be noticeable from the front. 🙂 Flip the side panels out and give everything a good press.
Peek inside pocket!
Now you can sew the rest of the dress as written!
Have you hacked the Mini Penny Pinafore? If so, what did you do?